Saturday, April 22, 2017

Back again and Paint

After a long hiatus on this blog I intend to catch up a bit and record some new information.

The first topic is paint.

For a long time I've been a fan of acrylic paints, the Modelflex / Accuflex range in particular. These are now very hard to get and my stock is used up, so about six months ago I began using the Vallejo paints. The benefit of these are:

huge range,
Used for military modelling - available in many hobby shops in Australia (and around the world),
Fantastic quality,
brush and airbrush versions.

Using samples of SEM colours as a guide I am now using the following:

VR Blue - "Model Air"range 71.090 Blue "Blue Angels"
VR Yellow - "Model Air" range 71.078 Gold Yellow. However I usually use Alps printed Yellow decals so use "Game Color" range 72.005 "Moon Yellow" (Brush version) or 72.705 "Moon Yellow" (Airbrush version)

VLINE Orange - "Game Color" 72.008 Orange Fire (Brush version), 72.708 Orange Fire (Airbrush version)
VLINE Grey - "Model Air: 71.056 "Panzer Dk Grey"

Victorian Rolling stock red - "Model Air" 71.105 Brown RLM 26

Here are the VR colours, photographed in sunlight the Walker on the left in Vallejo. The T is a bit dusty/weathered.

Here are the VINE colours, again Vallejo on the left. I think the orange is a closer match on the left. The Vallejo grey is very close to a fresh painted colour, but that tended to quickly age. There are lots of other grey's in the Vallejo range to get the right amount of weathered look.

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Frosted Extreme Detail

Today I received some prints in the new shapeways Frosted extreme detail. At 16 microns it is about twice the resolution of the Frosted Ultra Detail at 29 microns.

You can see a difference in the print quality. The following have had no surface finishing, just painted grey to help photograph.

First the plateframe bogie, this is the best and worst print that I received,both are crisper than the FUD, showing the rivet detail much better.

The QR is also much crisper with far less surface roughness. There does appear to be one disadvantage though, the material is bowing in much more than the FUD, meaning casting these will be important

The QR end, showing the slight bow along the top of the sides.

The QN also shows a marked improvement in surface finish.

Overall a marked improvement on what was already "good enough" direct from the manufacturer. However the bowing is already a concern, indicating that these are great for making masters for casting, rather than finishing and placing on the track as is.



Tuesday, February 10, 2015

The Sparks are Coming! - Comeng model from Brimbank

On Shapeways there are some very nice 3D models being developed by Brimbank models:

I ordered some a while ago and finally got in to cleaning them up, getting them in undercoat and then last night managed to do some decals.

Aust-N-Rail will be marketing these in the future as a kit with mechanism, pantograph and decals.

Friday, February 6, 2015

Series 1 T Class new production

Well after many years Aust-N-Rail has begun the new production of the Series 1 T class, thanks to a new master from Robbie Popovsk, who has created another work of modelling greatness!

Aust-N-Rail is not sure when it will be available, in part as we are searching for a new manufacturer in China, otherwise will will do it ourselves in Australia. Like the first run it will go on the Atlas VO-1000 mechanism and will be DCC ready, or will be able to be ordered with DCC fitted.

The following pictures are from the test casting.

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

E Class progress

G'Day all, merry Christmas, happy New Year, hope you had a great Australia Day!

A quick update with progress on the E class, in the process of adding lots of rivets at the moment....

Lots more to go!


Monday, September 15, 2014

House Move Complete

Well where has the year gone...

Largely dissolved between work, buying and selling houses, moving into Melbourne and setting up in a new place.

I'm starting to get back under control, well apart from being away four out of the next five weeks that is!

Last weekend I managed to get to a Victorian N Scale Collective meeting at Luke's the owner of this blog

Luke is doing really impressive work in 3D rapid prototyping, and it was great to see the vision (or madness?!) he has planned.

Well enough for now, back to sorting out the garage to make it habitable for Aust-N-Rail!



Saturday, February 8, 2014

Design Guidelines for Shapeways prints in N scale

G'Day, here are some guidelines for N scale model trains based on my experiences with Cubify Design and printing through Shapeways

First you really need to determine what sort of material you are going to use for your model, as this sets many of the parameters. I focus on two types:

White Strong and Flexible (WSF) is the cheaper model, has a rougher surface finish, and about half the resolution. It is great for making things like underframes (like on my Z tram) for inside models. I also use it for things like buffers ad the surface texture helps to give a bit of a wood like feel.

Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD) is the go to material for anything requiring detail. It is a bit more brittle, has a great finish and takes detail at 0.1x0.1mm.

Shapeways has a guide to features, which is occasionally changed. Key elements for FUD as of Feb 2014 are:
Minimum supported wall thickness 0.3mm (a supported wall has other walls on two or more sides).
Minimum unsupported wall 0.6mm  (for wagon sides)
Minimum supported wire 0.6mm (useful for stays and break gear where it has support on both ends)
Minimum unsupported wire 0.8 mm
Minimum emboss detail 0.1x0.1mm (like a rivet)
Minimum engraved detail 0.1x0.1 (for grooves in planking)

Now here are some practical guidelines. In general I have found a tendency too go to fine when designing, because you can.... when it is printed and painted slightly chunkier detail actually looks better. The best way to do this is to emboss out to at least 0.2 and 0.3 is better.

Rivets. I use 0.15 x0.15. I found that sometime 0.1x0.1 wouldn't print, and 0.2 x0.2 was a little big. Using 0.15x0.15 appears to solve it.

Model Walls. If you are going to cast the finished model then a minimum of 0.8mm for shorter walls (say under 1cm in height) is ok, but for coaches, locomotives, wagons it is best to aim for 1mm think walls, and more upto 2mm if you can to make a resilient model. So for the QN / QR models the alls are 0.8mm. For the end walls on the VFTY I went down to 0.7mm, however they have outside braces for strength.

Stakes. On the VFTY I have a 1.5mm x 1.6mm for the stake, which is pretty resilient, I "cut in" from the edge and 0.4mm deep to give the U frame. technically 0.2mm is too thin for a "wall", however as it is attached to a decent feature it counts as embossed detail... a useful trick.

Embossed detail. I have fund that 0.1mm emboss is too thin, you loose the detail. It is best to emboss out at least 0.2mm.

Planking gaps. To model gaps between planks,  use a width of 0.1mm but go for deeper cut of 0.2mm. Sometimes though this can be a bit "washed out" when printed so a width of 0.15mm may be better (I'm still testing this).

I have also been experimenting with the use of Micro-Trains 2001 couplers, these allow the riding height of the wagon to be lowered to a more correct height. The problem though, especially with bogies, is having enough wheel clearance underneath the wagon. After a bit of trial and error I have come up with the foillowing:

 To give enough clearance there needs to be 1.7mm from the bogie bolster (where the bogie touches the underframe). You mount the 2001 coupler 1mm "down" from the bogie bolster. The coupler pad needs to be 6mm deep and 5.2mm wide. The coupler hole is 3.6mm in from the end of the wagon and 1mm in diameter.

You can see how I have cut away in the underframe to give the bogie room to swing, remember though you need 0.3mm "above" this for the floor (it is a "supported wall"). Therefore aim to have at least a 2mm thick "floor" from the bolster to the floor on the inside of the wagon. A normal Micro-Trains bogie pin is 2.7mm though, so best to try and have a total thickness at the bolster point of 3mm, to allow for the bogie pin hole to be 1.9mm diameter and 2.7mm deep; otherwise the pin will need to be trimmed, or the bogie pin hole will go through into the floor of the wagon.

Hope this is useful for other designers, please feel free to ask other questions.